Youghal Lace

Youghal Lace began during the Great Hunger (Irish Famine) of the mid-1800s, when pieces of Point de France and Venetian Lace were unraveled by Mother Mary Ann Smith unravelled at the Presentation Convent in Youghal.

She meticulously decoded the stitches and then selected the woman and children capable of the best needlework and taught them what she had learned, turning lace-making into a vital economic support for their families at a time when it was sorely needed to pay rent and buy food.

From the outset, the lace makers were well paid, suitably reflecting the high esteem and prices associated with their produce. A ledger from 1906 reflects such rates as “handkerchiefs from 25 shillings to £12, scarves from £12 to £50 and babies’ bootees from £2 to £4.”

Youghal Lace: A Royal Tradition

In 1852, the Convent Lace School opened its doors in Youghal, marking the beginning of a storied connection with royalty. Just over a decade later, in 1863, this bond was celebrated with a gift of a Youghal Lace shawl to the Princess of Wales during her marriage to the man who would become King Edward VII.

The Royal Family & The Vatican: This gift was the first of many to grace the English Royal Family. Notably, Queen Victoria chose Youghal Lace for her coronation veil, and Queen Mary donned a Youghal Lace train during her 1911 visit to India. Those who could and would support such acquirements were the nobility, the gentry and the exalted classes throughout Europe and beyond. It is recorded that in 1896, a Youghal Lace fan leaf produced at the Presentation convent held “a crowned M in the centre” it being a wedding gift to Queen Mary’s sister-in-law Princess Maud. The Vatican prized Youghal lace in priests’ vestments and much of it probably still lingers behind those secretive Roman walls.

“No words could do justice to the beauty of these almost fairy-like productions of the needle,” – Enniscorthy Guardian in 1903.

Prize Winning: Another such fan presented to Queen Alexandra on her first visit to Ireland in 1903 includes an Irish harp in the centre and a ribbon inscribed (in Irish) ‘I cool, I refresh, and I can keep secrets’. In 1905 Princess Margaret of Connaught, received a wedding gift of a Youghal lace fan which had won a prize at the Dublin exhibition in 1897- an early example of the many accolades to be earned by Youghal lace over the years.

5,250, 000 Stitches! In 1911, on behalf of Northern Unionists, Youghal lace-makers made a lace train gift for Queen Mary to wear at the time of the Delhi Durbar (a mass assembly in Delhi to mark the coronation of the king and queen.) Said to be the largest lace creation ever, the donors had the Gaelic reflection, ‘Deanta (made) in Eireann’ removed and replaced by a shamrock, the dress train contained 5,250, 000 stitches made from nearly 12 miles of thread, each piece a testament to the lace’s regal elegance and the town’s esteemed craftsmanship.

Youghal Lace: The Thread of Continuity

In 1987, a pivotal chapter in the story of Youghal Lace unfolded. Sister Mary Coleman and Veronica Stuart, from Carrigaline, undertook a meticulous task. They unraveled a piece of Youghal Lace, delving deep into its intricate patterns and techniques to ensure the craft’s survival.

Their dedication was not just about studying; it was about perfecting the craft to ensure its continuity. Thanks to their efforts, Youghal Lace remains a living tradition. Known for its hallmark shell border and over 100 distinct stitches, it stands as a testament to its enduring legacy and adaptability.

“Youghal Lace – The Faces behind the Lace” a short film by Michael Hussey.
This film brings you inside the lace making rooms at Presentation Convent, Youghal, Co. Cork, Ireland and shows the incredible detailed work by the women and children in making Youghal Lace.

The Making of Youghal Lace

The journey of Youghal Lace begins with selecting the finest threads, emphasizing durability and sheen, crucial for crafting detailed needlework. This lace is created using complex hand-stitching techniques, each piece crafted with meticulous care, often taking several weeks to complete due to the detailed patterns and the precision required. Youghal Lace was crafted completely by needle, and the thread used is of very fine cotton.

Needle & Thread: Youghal Lace, renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship, represents the pinnacle of Irish Needlepoint. This delicate art form is meticulously handcrafted using nothing but a needle and thread. The intricate patterns are first imprinted onto a dark fabric through the application of a heated iron. This patterned material is then securely anchored onto multiple layers of fabric, which not only reinforces the structure but also enhances the lace’s durability.

Foundation Cord: The creation process begins with the laying down of a foundation cord, which is carefully couch-stitched using a slender thread to trace the entire design. With the framework in place, the ensuing spaces are adorned with an array of elaborate stitches, each contributing to the lace’s ornate texture. While many of these stitches have their roots in the historic needlepoint techniques of Venice and France, a number of them are unique innovations of Youghal, adding to the lace’s distinctiveness.

Finely Knotted Border Edging: A signature trait of Youghal Needlepoint is its finely knotted border edging, a meticulous detail that gracefully encircles each piece of lace. The final step involves delicately cutting through the temporary stitches on the backing cloth, allowing the completed lace to be gently extracted from its pattern base.

Modern Revival

Today, Youghal Lace is experiencing a resurgence, embraced by modern fashion designers for its historical richness and adaptability. This blend of tradition and innovation ensures Youghal Lace remains a coveted element in contemporary fashion. 

Cultural Heritage

The advent of machinery in the early 20th century heralded the end of Youghal needlepoint lace’s illustrious stature. It remained unique but mass production of lace diminished demand for the unique artefacts. It all but died except for a few private and personal practitioners. Most of the made lace was and is stored in such places as , for the want of a proper storage place in Youghal.

Collections: Preserving the Lace Legacy

The artistry of Youghal Lace is preserved in various collections:

• Youghal Heritage Centre, historical pieces are often displayed and during cultural heritage events in Youghal
• Cork’s Fitzgerald Museum displays a collection of Youghal needlepoint Lace
• The Kenmare Lace and Design Centre displays a sampler of 43 stitches
• Queen Mary’s court train and other pieces grace the Youghal Heritage Centre
• The National Museum of Ireland houses a 1906 collar, while design books and journals offer a glimpse into the lace’s intricate patterns.

Youghal Lace Making Exhibition as part of Culture Night 2012. Condon’s Florist hosted the Youghal Lace & Historical Photographic Exhibition. The tools and skills involved in Lace making were on show as well as a beautiful antique Youghal Needlepoint Wedding Dress

Podcast: “Unraveling Youghal Lace: A Journey into History, Craftsmanship and Community” Brigid Keane talks to Michael Hussey about the historical and cultural importance of Youghal Lace.